Mume, Taipei, Taiwan

RATING: ★★★☆ – VERY GOOD

MUME brings Nordic flavors to Taipei. It is one of the city’s hottest restaurants and this carves out a daunting task for the young chefs who are constantly being compared to NOMA and AOC; powerhouses of the culinary world.

Simple cement screed walls and an open kitchen + bar are the main features of MUME, excellently designed with the logo in a subtle imprint on the main entrance wall, the ambiance implies a simplistic yet refined approach to the cuisine.

Each table had a feature of slate rocks and some river pebbles which are placed in a lattice formation to house a candle. The concept of such a design feature is novel, the idea and story are sound, but the execution was far from stella; the rocks were awkward and looked cheap, they felt out of place and even obstructive to the overall table setting.

MUME is not a bar, it is a restaurant. And they make no reservations about being classified as one. That said, the cocktails were good but not phenomenal and that’s to be expected. Thumbs up.

Food is the star at MUME, each dish was excellently crafted and the backstory of cuisine resonated throughout the entire meal. The beef tartar in particular stood out as a superb dish. While much smaller than anticipated (compared to typical Scandinavian portions), fundamentally the dish had all the hallmarks of a great tartar; the crostini was grilled to perfection, there were dollops intensely dense, almost orange, egg yolk and there were crunchy elements on top of the tartar which added depth to the overall dish. Double thumbs up to a superb dish.

The chicken was a little disappointing, set atop a bed of very oily pesto, the plate looked very busy and messy, the oil leaked from the pesto and drenched the plate. However, it was still a delicious dish, with all components being cooked well and the meat as succulent and moist as birds could get. Visually it was a little bit off causing some points to be lost in its presentation.

“Be forewarned, portions are small for Taipei, which can compel a visit to the the Family Mart around the corner for a cone if green tea soft serve.”

Nicholas Lin

Nick is a multi-faceted, entrepreneur, restauranteur, and luxury curator. Passionate about wine, good food, fitness and travel, Nick left his management consulting job in New York City to pursue his passions for food and started a chain of sit-down restaurants in Singapore. After exiting the F&B business in 2019, he began to explore his other passions for fine wines, luxury travel, and a healthy lifestyle. Nick obtained WSET level 2 and attends numerous wine masterclasses each year. He writes about a myriad of topics and aspires to produce films in the very near future.

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